| First I have to locate a pattern to work from. I prefer
to
use full scale saddle patterns whenever possible. For this
pattern I found two books: one for a full size saddle and
one for a 6" saddle. I need to make 3" saddles. The 6"
saddle
pattern is one you would put on a key chain, not on a model
horse. Neither books contained pictures, just drawings.
And the author of the book was able to use tacks, nails and
other materials unsuitable for the model horse hobby.
I will use the patterns and techniques from both books to
create a unique pattern specifically for model horses.
I scan in all of the pattern pieces and reduce to the
correct size base on other saddle patterns I have made. Scanned images can be manipulated and reproduced much easier than traced images. |
|
| This is the first assembly of the 6" pattern, what I
call the
skeleton. I made no attempt the make the padding work.
Here I just wanted to see how all the piece fit together.
Several problems became apparent with this first attempt
The poleys (kneepads) are too thin. The front of the saddle
looks incomplete. The lower pads will need some design
improvements. Then there's the rigging and stirrup leather
location problems to address. But at least things
fit together, for the most part. |
|
| With the first attempt at padding (lower pads and seat)
I ran into
"bulk" and fitting issues. These were created
closely with the instructions in the book. Time to try again. |
  |
Australian Stock saddles normally use a fabric called
serge
for the lower pads. Here's a nice first failure at making fabric
pads of cotton batting and cotton sheeting.
Okay, so that didn't work.
Next?
Here also is the first attempt to join the lower flaps to create
the correct gullet size. I tossed out the extra lower flap piece
from the book as it was not necessary and just added bulk. |
 |
Lower pads and flaps: next attempt.
Much better. But still not exactly correct. I made the
top from skiver and the bottom from craft felt. I was hoping
to find a leather solution. But the craft felt behaved and the
leather was just too stiff. And I used craft foam to stuff the
lower pads. But the shape still isn't correct.
From here I decided to use only craft felt on both sides
of the
lower flaps.
Notice the different shape for the lower flaps. I
need
enough around the seat area to glue the tree. But this is
a tad bit too large as there isn't enough room for the piece
that fits on the very back edge of the lower pads. |
|
| Saddle 1
The first true prototype. Here I'm looking to make the
back of
the saddle work. And I'm also looking for correct fit on the
a model to see if I need to make the pattern larger or smaller.
In this case, I could make the pattern larger, But it just didn't
seem necessary. I'll review this again as I go along.
|
  |
Saddle 2
The back is taking shape so it's time to start addressing the
kneepads (called a poley or poleys) and the decorative
reinforcement panels. Both are made from 2oz leather, two
layers for the poleys. It's obvious that the reinforcement
panels need to be made out of skiver for this scale saddle.
The front of the saddle still needs lots of work. |
  |
Saddle 3
Here the reinforcement panels are made of skiver. I wanted to
see what would happen if the skirts were made from skiver
as well. Though it would eliminate the need to skive, it doesn't
do much for the shape of the back of the saddle.
Here's a first attempt at finishing the front of the
saddle. It
looks unfinished even with two layers of piping detail. I will
have to modify the tree. |
|
Saddle 4
Every once in a while I make a change that causes a complete
failure. Here the tree would not fit onto the lower assembly as
I made the gullet too wide. But you can see the layers with this
saddle, each in a different color. The tan is the lower flaps with
the green lower pads attached. The reddish-brown (called
British-tan) is the upper flaps. The tree and skirts are black.
The reinforcement panels are dark brown. The black strip
of leather is a failed attempt at creating a stirrup bar as
with my other English saddle patterns. This saddle will need
a completely different solution. |
 |
Saddle 5
Here's a failed attempt at fixing the front finishing problem. I modified the tree, but turns out it wasn't enough of a change.
The back is really taking shape. The process for
creating the
lower pads is nearly complete. I still want to find a way to
make the back of the seat more vertical. But I am please with
the progress so far.This is the first attempt at finding a way to attach
the stirrup
leathers without using the stirrup bar assembly. I don't like this
method and will look for another solution. Neither
book had any information on stirrups leathers or
rigging. If I am going to figure out the bulk issues for the
center of the saddle, I will need to do some research before
making any more prototypes. Off to ebay and the web to
look for pictures of the basic parts. |
|
| Here's the first blocking tool for the prototypes. I
don't even
consider creating a blocking tool until I think I have the shape
of the tree figured out. Turns out, I created this one too soon. Only the last two saddles (above) used this blocking
tool. For
the others I wet the skiver and used the tree to block the
shape. It takes more time and talent than using a blocking
tool.
The leather I used for his tool is very thick (belt weight
tooling leather), tough on a blade and not much fun to work
with. But my Mommie gave it to me (it was free) so I really
can't complain. 09/09/05 |
 |
| On to Chapter 2 |
|
